RUNWAY SHOW AW26
THE ARCHITECTURE OF FEMININITY
AW26 Collection
The AW26 SASUPHI Collection explores what we call the Architecture of Femininity.
Rooted in the Milanese code of quiet authority, it speaks to a woman who is a tender radical: cultured, intuitive, and quietly powerful. Milan is the grammar through which she expresses herself, a city shaped by a duality that mirrors the codes of her style. Its layered beauty emerges at the intersection of eras, where restrained classicism meets contemporary bravery.
Milan is a city of creatives, editors, architects, and thinkers: quiet radicals in their own way. Here, design is a civic language.
AW26 distils the full SASUPHI ethos into its purest form, grounded in cashmere and silk as its foundation. Knitwear remains the backbone. Rendered in a vertically graphic English rib, chunky cashmere becomes structure, defining bell-shaped capes, sculptural skirts, padded sculptural collars, conceived as necklaces, and oversized wide-brimmed hats. Knit is no longer a complement, but the architecture of the look. Around this core, the wardrobe unfolds naturally, and tailoring takes new shape. Soft, deconstructed cashmere and wool suits sit alongside silk tailoring that reframes the codes of formality. The silhouettes are graphic without severity. Day does not yield to night — there is only evolution.
The SASUPHI woman recalibrates her look as the hours pass, adjusting proportion, colour, and texture with instinctive precision. Set against the rigor of checked and herringbone wools, liquid silks in silver and gold introduce an element of unpredictability. Duchesse, silk twill, and double satin bring a refined sartorial edge. Here, structure meets fluidity like stone encountering steel. Colour defines proportion, while materials are selected from the inside out, beginning with how fabrics feel on the skin and their ability to instil ease and presence. Each look is conceived to define character. Proportions are intentional. Femininity is assertive and unmistakably present. Sartorial details transform function into expression. Italian craftsmanship anchors this dialogue. It is not a choice, but a discipline. The palette is rooted in Milan: navy, bordeaux, grey, military green, and camel anchor the composition, while black and white define its architecture. Into this discipline enter charged accents: mint, pink, lemon yellow, light blue, and orange-red. Colour is never decorative; it is graphic. It sharpens silhouettes, destabilises expectation, and creates rhythm. Gold and silver appear as controlled acts of disruption.
This season introduces SASUPHI’s first shoe, PHI, developed in collaboration with Diego Dolcini. Guided by the Golden Ratio, conceived for both day and evening, it rests on a considered mid heel, uniting soft black leather with coloured duchesse silk. Paired with black cashmere gaiters, it acquires added graphic discipline, evolving into a boot.
The show venue is a symbolic choice. Presented at Fondazione Giangiacomo Feltrinelli, designed by Herzog & de Meuron, the collection inhabits a space where past and future coexist. Architecture becomes dialogue and a reflection of Milan as it evolves without surrendering its cultural spine. Milan is not merely the backdrop of the collection; it is its framework, its measure, and its enduring point of departure.
